Aswan is a small city in southern Egypt, known for its temples, islands, and links to Nubian culture. It’s a common stop on Nile cruises and an easy base for visiting major sites like Philae Temple and Abu Simbel. The city is walkable, affordable, and less chaotic than Cairo or Alexandria, making it a good place to slow down while still seeing key parts of ancient Egypt. I wasn’t expecting Aswan to be so naturally beautiful—the Nile is wide and calm here, with rocky islands and desert landscapes on either side. The Nubian people are incredibly welcoming, and the food is fantastic. Life here feels simple, with small boats being the main way to get around.

In this post, I’ll cover the highlights of what to explore in Aswan, the places you can’t miss, where to eat, and my recommendations on where to stay.

Getting Around

Getting around Aswan was surprisingly straightforward, mostly thanks to our tour guide Tegwal who organised everything in advance. We travelled almost entirely by boat, which made the experience feel relaxed and more connected to the landscape. The boat we used most often was owned by the Nubian Palace hotel, where we stayed. It took us to temples, islands, and even dropped us at the train station when we were leaving.

The Nubian village—where most tourists tend to stay—is completely walkable. It’s made up of dirt roads and colourful houses, with small shops and restaurants scattered throughout. While cars and buses can access it, the road back to the main city is long and indirect, which is why using boats made more sense. Aswan itself has a central city area with banks, shops, and transport links, but we only really used a bus once, for the trip out to the Aswan High Dam. Everything else, from island temples to markets, was easier to reach by water.

WHAT TO SEE

Philae Temple

Philae Temple is one of Aswan’s most famous ancient sites. Dedicated to the goddess Isis, it sits on Agilkia Island, which you reach by boat. The temple complex was carefully relocated from its original island, Philae, to protect it from flooding caused by the Aswan High Dam. Its well-preserved hieroglyphs, towering columns, and peaceful waterside setting make it a key stop for anyone interested in Egypt’s temple architecture and mythology.

Nile Crocodiles

Keeping tame crocodiles is a common practice among Nubian families, reflecting their close relationship with the Nile. These crocodiles are raised from a young age in homes and become accustomed to human contact. During our visit, we were able to hold one, which was calm and comfortable around people—demonstrating how these reptiles are an unusual but accepted part of local life.

Nubian Village

The Nubian village is known for its vibrant houses painted in bright colours and distinctive patterns. It’s a small, walkable community with narrow dirt roads. Tourists often stay here to experience local culture firsthand, with opportunities to visit markets, taste traditional food, and see artisans at work. One of the highlights of our visit was a tour of a local school, where a teacher taught us Arabic and Nubian numbers and even helped us write our names on the classroom board.

Viewpoint Above the Nubian Village

The viewpoint above the Nubian village offers a clear, elevated view of the Nile winding through the landscape. We were taken there on a motorbike fitted with a four-seater carrier—called a toktok—which made for one of the funniest experiences of our lives. The trip isn’t for the faint-hearted, especially since our driver was a 12-year-old boy wearing an eye patch. From the top, we saw the colourful houses below, boats drifting on the water, and the surrounding desert hills. The spot is peaceful and a popular at sunset.

Aswan Dam

The Aswan High Dam is a major infrastructure project completed in the 1970s that controls flooding and provides hydroelectric power to Egypt. The dam created Lake Nasser, one of the largest man-made lakes in the world. Visiting the dam allows you to see this engineering marvel up close and understand its impact on agriculture, electricity, and the environment in the region.

Heissa Island

Heissa Island is a small, less touristy island on the Nile near Aswan, known for its palm groves and natural scenery. It’s a peaceful place to stop by boat and enjoy the quiet surroundings. During our visit, we were taken to a local guest house owned by a man known as Bob Marley, where we enjoyed drinks while watching the sunset from the side of a cliff. The island offers a contrast to the busier parts of Aswan and is ideal for a short break from sightseeing, especially if you want to see local wildlife or simply relax beside the river.

Dome of Abu al-Hawa

The Dome of Abu al-Hawa is a prominent hill near Aswan known for its rock-cut tombs, including the tomb of Sirenput, a governor of Nubia during Egypt’s 18th Dynasty. Sirenput’s tomb is part of the Abu al-Hawa necropolis, carved into the hillside and reflecting the burial practices of Egyptian officials in the region. The site offers expansive views of the Nile and surrounding desert, highlighting the strategic importance of this location in ancient times.

Aswan Botanical Garden

The Botanical Garden on Kitchener’s Island is a well-maintained green space that stands out in the arid environment. It was established during the British colonial period and features a wide range of plant species from Egypt and other parts of the world. Visitors can walk shaded paths lined with exotic palms, flowering plants, and medicinal herbs. It’s a calm spot to learn about regional flora and escape the heat.

Kayaking on the Nile

Our tour guide organised a kayak trip on the Nile, giving us the chance to explore the river up close. We paddled through calm waters, passing islands, palm-lined banks, and feluccas sailing nearby. It was a quiet way to reach spots that larger boats can’t access and see a different side of Aswan.

WHERE TO STAY

Nubian Palace

The Nubian Palace Hotel offers a true Nubian experience in the heart of Aswan’s Nubian village. The rooms are beautifully decorated with bright colours and distinctive traditional patterns, creating an authentic atmosphere. The hotel overlooks the Nile, with a peaceful terrace where guests enjoy homemade breakfasts and dinners featuring local flavours. Staying here means immersing yourself in Nubian culture, close to markets, artisans, and easy access to boat trips.

Sofitel Legend Old Cataract

The Sofitel Legend Old Cataract is a historic luxury hotel overlooking the Nile and Elephantine Island. Built in the early 20th century, it’s famous for its colonial-era architecture and classic interior design. The hotel has hosted notable figures like Agatha Christie and Winston Churchill. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s worth visiting to appreciate its grandeur and the panoramic views it offers over the river.

WHERE TO EAT

Picnic on the Nile

One of the most memorable meals we had in Aswan was a picnic on the banks of the Nile. We sat under the shade on a blanket, eating local bread, fruit, and simple snacks while watching boats drift by. It was peaceful and informal, with no one else around. The setting made it feel like a pause in the day—quiet, open, and completely different from eating in a restaurant. It’s a great option if you’re out exploring and want to slow down without heading indoors.

Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel

We had lunch at the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract, one of the most famous buildings in Aswan. The hotel overlooks the Nile and has a long history connected to writers, diplomats, and royalty. The setting feels formal and grand, with detailed architecture and polished service. The food is well presented and the drinks menu is extensive. It’s much pricier than most local places, but it’s worth it for the setting alone—especially if you sit outside by the water.

Nubian Palace

We ate most of our breakfasts and dinners at the Nubian Palace Hotel, where we were staying. The food was homemade and consistent—dishes like grilled chicken, lentil soup, stewed vegetables, and rice were served every evening. Breakfasts were simple but fresh, with bread, eggs, cheese, and coffee. Meals were served on the hotel’s terrace, which overlooks the Nile, and it became our go-to space to unwind in the mornings and evenings.

Solaih Nubian Restaurant

Solaih Nubian Restaurant is located directly across the water from Philae Temple. After visiting the temple, we took a short boat ride over to the restaurant for lunch. It’s a small, locally run place serving traditional Nubian dishes like okra stew, grilled fish, and fresh flatbread. After we ate, we were also taken to see a real lotus flower—a small detail that added to the experience. The restaurant has outdoor seating with views across the water and temple.